Ode to Vinaigrette

I have a confession.  I don’t buy commercial salad dressings or vinaigrettes. Not because they are expensive because when they go on sale, they are like 99 cents but because once I started making my own vinaigrettes and salad dressings, I couldn’t stop!  AND sure, if you do a comparison, 99 cents versus the pennies it costs to make a vinaigrette, it really is a no brainer.  It tastes fresher & cleaner atop salad greens, fish or legumes- it’s not that creamy, gloppy mess that you usually reach for.   But, the real reason why I love to make a vinaigrette is because I find the process of emulsification deeply satisfying.  I feel so fancy drizzling a steady, even stream of oil into my vinegar while whirling it around with my whisk.  IT’S SCIENCE, IT’S DELICIOUS!  I know, I’m a total dork, but anyway making your own dressing is really worth the effort, because really, it takes NO effort.  Once you know that the ratio for a classic vinaigrette is 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar (or acid) the possibilities are endless.  

I don’t really measure my vinaigrettes, just eyeball the ratio and taste along the way to ensure proper seasoning.  Use whatever vinegar you have on hand add a tablespoon of Dijon mustard, add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice to brighten the flavor, be sure to season with salt & pepper and there you have a lovely traditional vinaigrette.  Some people will also add a bit of honey or sugar to sweeten the vinaigrette, but I leave that ingredient to your discretion.

Since I’ve gotten into using fresh herbs whenever possible in my cooking, part of conundrum of buying fresh herbs inevitably becomes USING all of the fresh herbs.  I see this part of kitchen cooking to be a challenge in my eyes.  If I’ve purchased dill, thyme or even fresh rosemary, I will reach for whatever herbs I might have and throw those into my vinaigrette.  Many of your herbs can also be frozen in a cube tray with a little bit of water and saved for future use.  I’ll use a sesame oil as a base for Asian dressings with a little rice wine vinegar & honey, I’ll use orange juice instead of vinegar for a lovely citrus vinaigrette and dried herbs also can play really well here, so reach for your dill, smoked paprika, basil, thyme or whatever you might have and throw those in there too.  Some other additions I like to add- a clove of minced garlic, a bit of finely diced shallot, some diced tomato, diced capers, finely chopped anchovies (ooh you fancy!)- if you don’t think a chunky dressing is your thing, go ahead and throw it all into your food processor.  The point that I’m making here is that it is EASY once you figure it out, the possibilities are ENDLESS.  If you are still not feeling quite so confident with your vinaigrettes pick up one of these fun, mid-century looking dressing bottles.  

I got mine at Broadway Panhandler a few years ago, but a word of advice, just get it on Ebay or Amazon, it’s cheaper!   The ingredients and measurements are listed on the side of the bottle making it foolproof.  You want to get even easier, just dump all of your ingredients into a bottle, tighten the lid and just shake it up! Think we will only be using these for salads, think again- how about a nice marinade? The acid breaks down meat & tenderizes it OR how about a nice fresh citrus dressing for your fish dish? Go forth and try out some homemade vinaigrettes, you will not be sorry, your life will be simpler, tastier and maybe you will save a few pennies along the way.

Super Fresh Tomato Vinaigrette

Makes 4 servings

Can be pureed like below or left chunky

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup chopped tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon dried basil
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/2 teaspoon ground mustard

Dill Vinaigrette 

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

•  1/2 cup olive oil
• 1/4  cup red wine vinegar
• 1/2 one small diced shallot
• 1 tablespoon white sugar
• 1 teaspoon dried dill weed or FRESH chopped dill
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon onion powder
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/4 teaspoon mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Trader Joe(NESING)

Since getting back from Europe I’ve yet to adjust to the time difference, as usual.  Depressingly I woke up at 5:30am this morning and after sitting in the dark drinking my coffee, petting my cats and catching up on a few days of missed television shows, I decided to be productive and do my grocery shopping early, so as not to fill my WHOLE weekend with chores. The first outpost of the national chain grocery store, Trader Joe’s opened up in Staten Island yesterday.  Supposedly there were massive crowds and good amount of chaos surrounding the opening.  After checking online, I saw that TJ’s opened their doors at 8am! So guess what? I got dressed and headed down, considering that I came home from my trip to an empty fridge, I really did need to pick up groceries anyway.

Trader Joe’s is a company that established itself in the late 1950’s originally under the name Pronto Markets and in 1967 founder Joe Coulombe expanded the chain, gave the employees their signature Hawaiian shirts and developed the concept for the TJ’s you see today.  So what makes TJ’s different you ask? Basically TJ’s has established a system of cutting out the middle man, buying products directly from suppliers which allows the store to sell goods to us at lower prices. 

The store on Staten Island is located at 2385 Richmond Avenue on a corner where there formerly was a car dealership. While the supermarket is not hugely large, there was ample parking both in front and behind the store.

Frozen falafel, chicken tikka masala, gourmet chicken meatballs, packages of stir fry vegetables, pre-chopped mirepoix, nuts in bulk, chili lime chicken burgers, individual vacuum sealed frozen seafood, if any of this indicates something to you it should be that Trader Joe’s is about convenience. Pre-prepared foods run the gamut here and it seems that the store ultimately is catering to a customer that is short on time! Not particularly known for its quality produce, I really skipped that section all together and explored the other parts of the store. Right off the bat, the cheese and dairy section impressed me, the frozen foods section was great.  

Some items that were pretty low priced included the rice milk for $1.69, frozen shelled edamame for $1.50 a bag, various hummus spreads for $1.99, raw nuts $4.99 a pound, gourmet salsas for $2-3 a jar, bananas 19¢ a pound, frozen chopped herb cubes (BRILLIANT), 20 for $1.99, Greek yogurt 16oz for $1.99, Pine nuts 8oz for $8 and many more.  

I came home with many of the above mentioned plus some chicken tenders in curry sauce, multi-grain pita chips, roasted wasabi seaweed snacks $1, freeze dried mango, Bite Sized Everything Crackers, TJ’s New Orleans Style Chicory Coffee, Creamy Toscano Cheese dusted with Cinnamon.  I did NOT spot the two-buck chuck so no cheap wine for us Staten Island and the beer section seemed just okay, I’ve seen better micro-brew selections at Top Tomato down on Bay Street.  The staff was very friendly, the check out process fast and the whole experience generally pain free! So far out of what I purchased and tried, the hummus was excellent, as were the pita chips and seaweed snacks (that might not be your thing though).  I’m happy to see some new retailers on the Staten Island grocery scene and welcome the alternative.  Go check it out when you get the chance and let me know what you think!

The 7th Annual 2011 Vendy Awards

So, the annual Vendy Awards were held yesterday at Governor’s Island.  We happened to luck out with the weather, because it looked kind of ominous out there. It was hot, it was humid, but the rain stayed away and for that I am grateful.  If you are unaware of what the Vendy Awards are I will explain.  The Street Vendor Project is a member’s only, non-profit organization that regularly rallies for street vendor’s rights, provides information on things like permits, their legal rights, aids with dispute mediation and generally provides an organizational format for the street vendors to share in their battles against the city or help each other out when needed. The truth is that there are over 10,000 street vendors in New York City and these guys are the true small business owners. Vendors are regular guys with families that live and GIVE life to our city.  Do you have a memory of Christmas in New York without roasted chestnuts or peanuts? Would New York be the same if there weren’t “dirty water dogs” or perhaps you might recall several trips to SoHo or the Lower East Side, many drinks later and A MUCH needed stop for Halal meat at 3am.   Would Breakfast at Tiffany’s be BREAKFAST without Holly Golightly’s coffee cup?  As a lifelong New Yorker I can say that street vendors are a permanent fixture of our urban landscape.  I want these guys there & personally I will always support them.  I prefer coffee from my local coffee cart guy to Starbucks, I buy fruit from the Eastern European woman on 53^rd who loves when I might accidentally give her foreign change (apparently she collects it) and a few days a week I’ll be on line for shawarma or Halal food.  Everyone goes above and beyond, they know how I take my coffee, they ask me how my day is going and they don’t care when I’m 25 cents short because they know I’ll overtip them a day later.  These guys work hard- up EARLY in the morning and are there rain, snow or shine, god bless them!!  So, for the Street Vendor Project, The Vendy Awards is the celebration of the best food that these sidewalk chefs and street vendors can offer.

This year 22 vendors competed in the categories of: The Vendy Cup, Rookie, Best of NJ & Dessert.  We got to Governor’s Island via the Atlantic Avenue ferry in Brooklyn which was a quick five minute ferry ride.  Entry to the Awards was fast and very organized- once they checked our ID’s and tickets and we got our “Over 21” wristbands we were ready to EAT.  We had a strategy that really worked to our advantage, while everyone was at the front, we headed towards the back where there were virtually NO lines! We headed straight to Tamales Guadalupe, a vendor serving up traditional Mexican tamales wrapped in corn husks. I chose a tamale verde with chicken and Jeff got a rojo (red).  Guadalupe Galicia is a single mom with two children and this is her primary source of income.  Watch her video here—

The tamales were great and she also served up some nice rice pudding which was delicious with lots of Mexican cinnamon and nutmeg.  While IN LINE for the tamales the guy ahead of me seemed to be eating some kind of delicious looking braised beef.  I had to ask where THAT came from and he pointed to the Sunrise Grill which was right across the way.  Sunrise Grill is a truck that usually hangs out on 168^th Street, serving up traditional Jamaican food.

Man, was I excited! This food looked fantastic! I opted for a nice braised oxtail with greens and red beans and rice and Jeff got the curry goat. AMAZING. The oxtail was braised to perfection, soft and delicious made with a nice blend of spices. There were also pieces of fruit cake available, which I went back for seconds of- dark, moist, without the candied fruit which you typically associate with fruit cake and a nice spiced rum flavor- SO GOOD. We ate on!!!

Taim Mobile Falafel Truck, known for their fresh falafel and homemade blended sauces, served up decent portions of falafel pitas with yummy herbed sauces which we put down easily.  

Comme Ci Comme Ca, my usual Mediterranean/Moroccan food truck fave was there, dishing out their cous cous & merguez, Korilla BBQ (of Food Network’s The Great Food Truck Race) and many, MANY others that I won’t get into specifics about. 

They were all excellent.  After more than a few spicy dishes, for dessert we went straight to LaNewYorkina where owner Fany Gerson (seen below), known for her delicious frozen paletas (popsicles) was handing out a nice selection of her well-known pops- white sangria, pineapple jalapeno, horchata, café con leche, cajeta with pecans.  

I’m actually a huge fan of Fany’s and own her recipe book, Paletas.  The mini paletas did not disappoint! The cajeta (made with a goat’s milk caramel) was rich and creamy offset by the delicious crunchy, saltiness of the pecans.  Jeff had the white sangria that also kicked ass, albeit in a fruity, tangy & citrus-y way.  We also tried some of the shaved ice dessert from Woolys, which I had never tried or witnessed the making of! The Wooly’s guys had these huge blocks of flavored green tea infused ice which got shaved into light flaky bits by these interesting contraptions.  

In the Best of NJ category was a truck called the Cinnamon Snail. Operated by some guys in some silly ass uniforms (they know it too), they served up one of the most delicious donuts I have ever tried. This donut was light, puffed up to perfection, with a carmelized Maker’s Mark sauce on top and creamy filling inside.

The guys working there, while silly, were super friendly, more in on the joke, “service with a smile…and a laugh” and I definitely appreciated it. These guys are based in Hoboken and I would be up for trying out MORE of their food if the donut was any indication of the high quality ingredients they use.

What else? An open bar, with a sponsor by Brooklyn Brewery, some wines, water, & kombucha (of course). The voting booth, some merchandise, everything was not too crowded, with lots of seating room & live music.  Overall the Vendy Awards were a great experience, and one I’ll gladly, happily support again next year.  Congrats to the winners;  Solber Pupusas (Vendy Cup),  Korilla BBQ (Rookie Vendor of the Year), Woolys (Best Dessert),  Cinnamon Swirl (The Maker’s Mark Street Food Challenge- FOR THAT DONUT!) & The Taco Truck (Best of NJ).  Follow your faves on Twitter and see where they might be near you!

Shaolin Selects

So, I’ve been slacking on the blog lately.  My sincerest apologies. Maybe I got caught up savoring those last few days of summer, maybe it was because something else was all consuming, i.e. fashion week, and maybe there’s been some family drama as of late as well. But ALL excuses aside, it hasn’t stopped me from my routine of cooking, eating, drinking and enjoying things, so THAT has not changed!  Due to my recently insane schedule, Jeff and I have found ourselves looking for dining options, closer to home, here on Staten Island.  When you want good food, sometimes you don’t want to go very far! I have two worth noting new dining experiences that went down in my book as GREAT to EXCELLENT.

The first one I want to talk about is Lakruwana, located at 668 Bay Street.  I’ve passed Lakruwana MANY times. I’ve even said a few times “I’ve heard it’s good, we should go there!” but I hadn’t gone there!  One Thursday evening Jeff and I had New York harbor cruise tickets that our friend Scott Wegener had purchased. Unfortunately, the weather DID not cooperate for us, so we all opted for dinner at Lakruwana instead.  Nothing really prepared me for Lakruwana.  I knew it served Sri Lankan food, but beyond that I had no clue. We stepped into Lakruwana and it was like I suddenly was at the Epcot Center Sri Lankan pavilion! There were these great hand made high back rattan chairs, clay pots and pottery everywhere, masks on the walls, spears on the walls! Elaborate pendant lamps hanging from the ceiling, and carved statues- I didn’t know where to look! But nothing was cluttered; it all complimented each other and added to the overall atmosphere.  Excuse the grainy cell phone pics, it was dark in there! 

The server came to our table with giant totems and I thought, “what the hell are these?” but they were the menus!

So what is Sri Lankan food like? Apparently, it’s similar to Northern Indian food, similar cooking techniques and similar spices used.  I ordered a lovely beef lamprais, which was curried beef with basmati rice, vegetables and spices steamed inside a banana leaf - it was DELICIOUS. You can vary the level of spiciness and thinking I was tough and because I love spicy food, I asked for the medium. I was wiping my brow, as my mouth was seemingly ON FIRE. but I loved it and ate on in-between cooling gulps of a lovely sweet lassi to quell the fire.  Jeff opted for a Biriyani, a dish that he happily put down without saying a word.  His rice arrived with a FACE, not that that detracted him from eating it.

Lakruwana was an excellent dining experience, so much so that we went back even more recently for their Sunday all you can eat lunch buffet.  For $11.95 (!) we stuffed our faces with delicious Sri Lankan specialties like curries, stewed vegetables, vegetable fried rice, basmati rice, and dessert of fresh yogurt with honey and mango mousse. FANTASTIC.  While Lakruwana stands where I once went to see local music, it was once a venue called S.R.O., I’m totally okay with what it has progressed to, a unique Staten Island dining experience. Go there and support them, you won’t be disappointed!

The second place I want to mention is Bay Street Luncheonette and Soda Fountain. Long name, right? Small place, but great! This one is located a little further down Bay towards the Fort at 1189 Bay.  Another find of Scott Wegener’s! About Scott, he’s an artist and helps to create a great comic book (with Jeff) called Atomic Robo. Check the link above and read all about it, it’s an excellent comic book for both kids AND adults filled with amazing artwork that Scott sometimes complains about producing but does so with finesse! I’m a fan!  But I digress.  Step into the Bay Street Luncheonette and step in the 1950’s! 

Chrome dining sets with cherry leather seats, a full length soda counter serving up a complete menu of traditional egg creams, ice cream shakes and root beer floats and if you, like me are still mourning the loss of the A&W diner on Hylan, you can rejoice because this place does a fine job creating your previously lost favorites.  The menu is pretty straightforward breakfast- omelets, egg sandwiches, hash browns, pancakes and thick French toast.  The prices here are EXCELLENT, more than affordable and everything served by an overly attentive wait staff that are friendly and personable.  If you know me, all I want from a good dining experience is GOOD food and friendly faces, and you pretty much will have me as a patron for life.  So, go cure your hangover and go get your Sunday buffet on, these two places are worth going to so let’s help keep these small businesses alive.   Cheers shaolin! Keep up the good eats!

Seasonal Salads & Sides

It’s the end of August people! We are in the summer season home stretch, so I don’t know about you, but I’m trying to squeeze every last drop out of the summer that I possibly can! I’m shopping for the late summer seasonal fruits and vegetables- NJ tomatoes, squash, zucchini, eggplants, peaches, nectarines, plums and other stone fruits.  These vegetables and fruits are at their peak right now and at their most delicious.  Really, how many times throughout the year have you purchased tomatoes in particular, bring them home and these hothouse versions of the fruit have ZERO flavor?  I feel like I’m not eating a tomato, I’m eating a piece of cardboard!  SO, now is the time to take advantage of beautiful, ripe, juicy tomatoes, bright in flavor and color that are fragrant and taste EXACTLY how a tomato should taste!   Make some sauce, freeze it or make a savory tomato relish and save it to enjoy well into the fall.  BUT, for right now, my mind is on minimal cook time (still!) with simple, beautiful ingredients that provide optimum flavor.  Let’s close our eyes and pretend we are in the Amalfi Coast, do it with me….

One favorite side of mine is the Caprese or “three-color” salad- it’s simple, fresh, easy and makes a beautiful presentation as a side to ANY dish.  Pick up some fresh salted mozzarella (at Top Tomato) slice it up, buy some vine-ripe or beefsteak tomatoes, assemble on a plate, drizzle with olive oil & balsamic or red wine vinegar (your preference) season with salt & pepper (generously) and chiffonade some basil.  You an also add extras like tapenade, kalamata or regular black olives, toasted pine nuts (in a dry pan) & shaved or chunked parmesan.  Chiffonading your basil is an easy way to add elegance to your dish. Simply stack a few basil leaves, roll into a tight cigar shape and slice thinly across. Voila!

I don’t think any instruction is required of the above, right? Just slice, arrange, drizzle, enjoy! One thing worth noting- if you do happen to get some STILL flavorless tomatoes, slice them up and season them with sea salt & pepper which will draw some of the moisture out and give them extra SABOR!

Another easy side dish I love for the summer is a ribboned zucchini crudo (raw) salad. Using a mandoline or simple vegetable peeler, you can transform your zucchini into something that you might see at a fancy restaurant.  In fact, the first time I decided to make this salad, I was inspired by a French provencal version I had had at a fancy dinner party in Millbrook, NY (NO, it wasn’t Martha’s Stewart’s house, BUT close enough!) There are so many ways to vary this salad- you can add pine nuts, or walnuts, feta cheese or parmesan. It would be lovely with fresh mint OR basil, a little lemon zest, maybe some olives or capers as well, use whatever you have in your home! This salad is fresh, healthy and impressive (should you have guests over).

Ribboned Crudo Zucchini Salad

Serves 4

Ingredients

2 pounds small zucchini, trimmed

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves, chiffonade or torn

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, chiffonade or torn

12 Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, pitted and thinly sliced   

Chunked or shaved parmesan- your choice, depending on what you like

Cut zucchini lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick slices with slicer or a vegetable peeler or your Benriner and transfer to a colander set over a bowl. Sprinkle zucchini with salt and toss to coat (you are essentially drawing some of the extra moisture out) Let stand 5 minutes, then rinse under cold running water. Transfer zucchini to a clean kitchen towel and spread in 1 layer, then gently roll up towel to absorb excess water and let stand 5 minutes more. Whisk together your dressing- oil, zest, juice, mustard and pepper in a large bowl until combined. Add zucchini, cheese, herbs, olives and toss to coat.

FINALLY, I’m going to try and sell you on the virtue and extols of a roasted red pepper salad.  If you haven’t tried this at home and have only relied on roasted red peppers out of a jar, you are truly missing out!  While pepper season is on the horizon (Fall), the freshness of this salad is right in keeping with my palate pleasing summer salad choices and is ALL around excellent.  My mother used to make her own roasted peppers constantly when I was growing up- she preferred her version extremely HEAVY on the garlic, but she is a Spaniard and garlic is to a Spaniard what heroin is to an addict.  Any opportunity to eat a roasted vegetable with garlic and olive oil, sopped up on a piece of crusty bread they love…but I digress.

It IS a great salad though and personally I love the experience of peeling away the charred bits of pepper after they have roasted and steamed- its kind of like peeling away the Elmer’s glue off of your hands as a child. There is some controversy regarding broiler usage and whether or not you should keep you oven door open to allow some of the heat to escape. I’ve heard this produces even roasting temperatures as opposed to increased continual rising heat, but I’m asking you to check your oven instructions, as I’ve ALSO heard of people melting their stove top knobs off of their ovens (that’s no good!)  BUT always remember to keep an eye on any food you might be broiling as it can quickly go from roasted to CHARRED!  While the peppers are steaming, post roasting you can work on other elements of your dinner OR you can make this salad first, throw it in the fridge and really allow the flavors to marinate.

Roasted Red Pepper Salad

Serves 4

Ingredients

4 Red Bell Peppers

1 Teaspoon Olive Oil

1 Tablespoon of Capers (rinsed & drained)

¼ Cup pitted Kalamata Olives- Chopped

½ Teaspoon red-wine vinegar (or Balsamic if you prefer)

1 Teaspoon Lemon Zest

Salt & Pepper to taste

Basil - Cut into chiffonade OR torn if preferred

Heat broiler with rack in top position.  With bell peppers on a foil rimmed baking sheet, broil the peppers, turning occasionally until charred on all sides and tender, about 10 minutes.  After broiled, transfer peppers to a bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap, allowing to sit & steam for about 20 minutes.  After steaming, remove the skins from the peppers.

Usually I just peel the skins off, but if you are having trouble try rubbing them with a dry paper towel.  Stem, seed and cut each pepper into strips. 

Arrange your peppers on a serving tray and drizzle with olive oil and vinegar, topping with olives, capers, lemon zest and basil.  Season with salt & pepper to taste.

Enjoy your salads and the rest of your summer, we’ve only got a few weeks left of this bliss!

Bier, Brats & Bavaria

Part II

After over half a day of touring the Residenz I was ready for some food.  The Viktualienmarkt- Munich’s oldest outdoor market (since 1807) has over 140 market stalls selling everything from fresh fruits, flowers & spices, regional specialties like wursts, schnaps, honey, pretzels and of course serves as biergarten which unfortunately is late to open at 9AM!! 

So at 9:02 you can roll up to the beer shack where all the bier is poured out from the barrels and you grab how ever many half liter or full liter mugs that you want! It’s quick, quick, quick just get your bier and go sit at one of the communal or highboy tables! 

Of course after I had gotten my biers a tour bus of American students pulled up outside the Viktualienmarkt, their occupants heading straight to the bier line, these kids clearly taking advantage the lowered legal age for drinking in Germany (drinking at 14 with a parent, 16 without!) Students aside, the Maypole was beautiful in the center of the square and I got myself and nice salty pretzel to go with my bier & some wursts and all was right with the world.

I did a few laps around the market, and left with some assorted German schnaps- in raspberry, peach, pear, cherry and a spice blend.  This is the thing with German schnaps, they are sugar free- really just a distilled alcohol infused with fruit or spices or roots. 

Therefore they are EXTREMELY strong 35% volume and UP, and therefore go down like paint thinner burning your throat! People down these after meals in Germany like nobody’s business but unfortunately, I couldn’t do it! I’m a lightweight!  So, I’m trying to figure out ways of mixing what I brought home.  I’m determined to make it work.

           

After my day was said and done, my body was straight up hurting form all the walking around. Even with my most comfortable pair of shoes, my feet still hurt.  So I made it a point to pick up some nice German badesalz (bath salts) from the local Apotheke and gave myself a much needed hot soak back at the hotel.  After that I felt somewhat renewed and hungry, so I sought out an option close to my hotel which was located in the center of the city anyway, so there were lots of options.  Knowing that I wouldn’t be eating typical Bavarian for the latter half of the week, I wanted to get it all in for the first half! The Beim Sedlmayr fit the bill.  The seating was beer hall style with long communal tables and the restaurant is a local favorite, so I plopped myself towards the back giving me a full view of the place.  Beim Sedlmayr is known for it’s schnitzel and its sour calf kidneys or pickled pigs feet, but I of course I went straight for the wienerschnitzel- it was pounded thin and fried to perfection, not heavy or oily with a slice of fresh lemon. SO good.  Served with a side of german potato/apple salad and a weissbier, it was fantastic.

For the next day I decided I was taking a trip OUT of Munich and towards Austria to visit Bavaria’s most iconic castles Schloss Neuschawanstein & Hohenschwangau. The first being the iconic home built by the wildly eccentric “Mad” King Ludwig II and the latter being the summer home he grew up in with his father King Maximilian II. 

Hohenschwangau

There are many aspects of King Ludwig’s life that were debated, whether he was actually mad or not, (the consensus is that he was not, but rather the victim of a plot to dethrone him), his sexual orientation, many believe he was likely gay and involved romantically at some point with the composer Wilhelm Richard Wagner. Ludwig II was reclusive, choosing to leave miles away from Munich and the circumstances surrounding his death are still disputed and investigated (was he shot or drowned?) So, theories aside, Schloss Neuschawanstein is every notion you might have in your head of what a fairytale castle SHOULD look like. 

If you get into specifics, the Cinderella castle in Disney World was inspired by this castle.  Built into the side of a mountain overlooking beautiful rolling hills, lakes and valleys it honestly was ALL the magic I needed right then and there. The weather was perfect and it provided a deep blue backdrop that just enhanced the overall experience.  

It took over 23 years to build the castle and Ludwig II spent so much money on its construction that he died with so much debt, the castle was immediately opened to the public as a tourist destination to help repay what was owed. The trip was about an hour and a half outside of Munich and after touring two castles I got back to Munich at around 8pm having to attend a work function at 9 & that’s when the magic stopped!   Well, work WAS the purpose of this trip. 

Since I had a media event at the Mandarin Oriental hotel the next day, I was pleased to find it overlooked the bier garten of the iconic Hofbrauhaus so I got to listen to Bavarian music throughout the day as smell of crispy pig knuckles wafted up. Hofbrauhaus, Munich’s oldest brewery was built in 1607 at the order of King Maximilian I so that he had his favorite wheat bier within close range of the Residenz.

Maximilian I was a known gourmet and he demanded the white bier be produced over the heavey “brown barley ale” that was typical of the time.  Luckily I was able to make a lunch stop at Hofbrauhaus in between appointments. If you want a similar experience go check out the newly opened Hofbrauhaus in NYC on Third Avenue- I haven’t been there yet, but I hear its fun.

Hofbrauhaus House Band

Another stop worth noting, also within range of the Residenz is the gourmet store, Alois Dallmayr. Over three centuries old, (est. 1700) Dallmayr used to serve as the official supplier of food items to the Royal Bavarian Court. Now, Dallmayr is the producer of some of the finest food items in Germany, with gourmet coffee being one of their main commodities.  I bought several items to take home with me from Dallmayr, pistachio honey, some liquors, cookies and candies which didn’t even make it home with me.  Dallmayr has this great old world hand crafted aesthetic coupled with a beautiful traditional German feeling.  The store had a huge selection of alcohols, dessert items, candies, artisanal sausages, speck, honey and jams.

There is a dining area upstairs that offers food made with Dallmayr ingredients and of course there are a few other dining areas for a quick in and out snack or drink. To me it has a VERY similar layout and feel as Mario Batali’s Eataly in NYC.

Dallymayr and everything in Germany was just fantastic.  I enjoyed my trip thoroughly and recommend the city/country to anyone who might be considering a trip to Europe. You can only hope the weather is good when you go!

Bier, Brats & Bavaria

Part I
So, my latest work endeavors have taken me to the land of dirndls and glockenspiels, pretzels & bier and everything Bavarian in-between.  We were doing a series of events, media presentations and customer work in Munich, Germany for a few days so I took the opportunity to arrive there a few days earlier and take advantage of the travel.  I was excited to explore a new country and since Bon Appetit declared Germany the new culinary leader & influence I was anxious to explore from a culinary perspective, despite my general thinking that Bon Appetit is bullshit these days, but I digress...

Leaving New York City in the middle of a heat wave (temps reached 105), I was screaming to visit a place that was cool and rainy, so I packed up my coats, tights and closed toe shoes and embarked on my Bavarian adventure.  I arrived in Munich on Sunday and stepped out of the cab to a lovely 55 degree temperature – it felt like fall and was a welcome respite from the heat and humidity I had just left behind in New York.  My hotel was located near the town square in Munich, the Marienplatz- the center and heart of the city was just a few blocks away.  So after a nice nap, I woke up feeling refreshed and ready to start to get to know the area.  Since my hotel wasn’t an American Marriott or Hilton, the reception had little to offer me in terms of directive other than “make a right, THEN make another right”. Thanks.  Luckily I always travel prepared, with guides and maps! So, that night I walked and walked and walked some more. In a few hours I saw the famed Glockenspiel, the Baroque Theatinerkirche, the Felderrnhalle and a few other churches in the Marienplatz area. 

The Glockenspiel

Theatinerkirche

Inside the Theatinerkirche

Since it was Sunday, the majority of people that out & about were locals taking a leisurely stroll- so it wasn’t as crowded and all the beautiful churches were open to the public.   At around 7-8 after all that walking, I needed a meal.  The nearby Nurnberger Bratwurst Glockl am Dom fit the bill- traditional Bavarian food served in a traditional setting, a restaurant that first opened in 1893 across from the Frauenkirche (the largest Gothic church in Southern Germany).

The meals were all served on tin plates, the atmosphere was warm and typically German with cuckoo clocks, heavy furniture, wood paneled walls, bier barrels in the back and prints from Albrecht Durer on the already picture heavy walls. Warm fresh pretzels are a given on every table and my crispy pork came with a veal meatball, potato dumpling and a lovely potato, cucumber, apple salad that I of course complimented with a half liter of the house bier. 

I finished off my meal with the lightest apple strudel which wasn’t what you would imagine a strudel to be- since the apple was layered, cut paper thin, more like a piece of pie and coupled with the MOST amazing warm vanilla sauce.  I left loosening my belt and ready for a good night’s sleep.

            My plan for the next day was the hit the historic Residenz. Originally a moated castle (1385), it was eventually made in an extensive complex with seven courtyards which served as the home of multiple generations of Bavaria’s famed Wittelsbach dynasty.  MASSIVE in structure, I was told to devote at least a half a day to touring the facility in its entirety.  In addition to something over 160 rooms, the Antiquarium, a 225 barrel vault housed frescoes, grotesques and other embellishments was a must to be seen, as was the Cuvillies Theater (the royal theater) in all of its Rococo glory, the Treasury (where all the royal jewels and crowns were held), the Ancestral Galley, chapels and halls.  

Antiquarium at the Residenz

Ancestral Gallery at the Residenz

ONE of the Receiving Throne Rooms

Cuvillies Theater

Treasury at the Residenz

Honestly I could have stayed at the Residenz ALL day, it was beautiful, impressive and sometimes unbelievable. In some rooms it looked like Liberace had thrown up gold leaf all over it, but I wouldn’t expect anything less from a royal residence!  The royal jewels were unbelievable, a testament to the gross amount of wealth these families had.  I emerged from the Residenz rubbing my eyes and in need of a good meal.  Part two of my day was reserved for the Viktualienmarkt an outdoor food market and bier garden established in 1807—I was ready for a few pints to be sure!